Saturday, November 28, 2015

[Trekking] The harmony of Water and Woods - Shuiyang senlin (水漾森林)

Team: GoforWild
Time: 2015/10
Place: Alishan town (阿里山) and Shanlinxi town (杉林溪), Nantou
Difficulties: **(1.5/5)

We are now continue on the section of A Xi trekking trail, after Songshan mt.


Harmony of water - blue sky and misty forest in morning.


Mianyue - Sleeping under Moonlight


First, let me come back with he myths telling origin of the term Mianyue, which was name under Japanese rule time; before the forest nam was named Bopizai (薄皮仔林, which mean cypress forest). Although we now moving from Songshan Mt. to Shuiyang, getting further and further from Mianyue Area, but later, we're gonna pay a visit to Mianyue Divine tree, and you'd definitely regret if missing this fantasy story. 



Photo credit: Max

Kawai Shitarō(河合鈰太郎) had arrived first time at this area of forest in 1906 in a project of forest exploration and exploitation. It was told that he lied on a big rock platform near Shigupan stream and enjoyed that terrific moonlight, which shone through thick dense giant trees' top and illuminated the silent woods. Every breathing life was sank in extremely beautiful quietness. I bet that every camper would desperately want to experience this moment, a peaceful and harmony night with moonlight and quiet forest.

13 years later he came back exactly the same area, which then already a well- developed logging camp. It was no doubt that's his expectation of being embraced by moonlight and natural forest hardly came true. Bemoaning for the old beauty now only exist in his memories and dreams, he wrote a poem which literally means: 


"Axes now entering the green hills, felling all the thousand-year-old ancient trees, old days stone bed covered with lush green mosses is now traceless, harmony of the stream was only moaning from past glory time..."


His poems were an exact prediction of what had happened later, years of poor planning forest exploitation leave us many giant tree roots. Photo credit: Max

The area was later named Mianyue - Sleeping under the Moonlight, as a sweet memories of Shitaro's pleasant experience of sleeping in juggle under moonlight. As usual, we'd never treasure anything until we missed it. It can be a attractive fantasy to tell about the woods, or a painful lesson of over exploitation. 


Mianyue Divine Tree (Mianyue shenmu, 眠月神木)


I visited Divine Tree in my second time comeback to Shuiyang forest, entering from the other end: Shanlinxi. It took us two hours around from the lakeside camp to the tree. Therefore, only if you made arrival at campsite before 13:00pm in advance, additional journey to old divine tree was  such an enjoyable leisure activities in afternoon. It was a bit steep from the start with all big rocks and roots. Keep hiking up for half an hour; after then the path was quite flat, however, it was stacked with falling tree trunks after several vigorous tropical storms. You can cross over them easily, just a little sad that uphills there were less and less tree rooted in soils. 


On the way from campsite to Divine tree. Photo credit: Max 


Taiwan has her own term for a great giant ancient tree:  Shenmu (神木), which literally means trees of God, Divine trees. Deification phenomenon was settled on two conditions: whether the trees were a sacred worship of indigenous to God  and Goddesses in ritual ceremonies, or whether the trees are old enough to be Deity themselvesBasically, any tree that was more than 1000 years old, It would be respectfully and sincerely called Shenmu. 


Photo credit: GoforWild


And guess what? This giant 4100-year-old tree seems to be Taiwan oldest cypress tree (menoki). Not kidding? 4100 years? Yeah, I double check its information and it stated that way. Despite of the years, Mianyue Divine tree was not at first rank for its size. Nevertheless,  48 m height and 17.8 m of radiation  were quite impressive numbers, the tree looks like a big wall  in middle of forest, especially when you compare it with surrounding newly raising small tree trunks. 



Photo credit: Max

Sunday, November 1, 2015

[Trekking] Once upon a trail: A-Xi trekking trail (阿溪縱走)

Team: Yuanze Mt. Club and GoforWild
Time: 2012/6 and 2015/10
Place: Alishan town (阿里山) and Shanlinxi town (杉林溪), Nantou
Difficulties: **** (4/5) for the whole trail, **(1.5/5) for section to Shuiyang. 



A-Xi trekking trail 2012 (Photo credit: Monica Liu)


1. Once upon a trail: Alishan  - Xitou 


Back to its glory days during 1970s-1980s, a hiking trail had been settled in the woods of Nantou District by Taiwan China Youth Corps . The original trail was in total of 32 km, start from Xitou to Alishan which runs along side of Xitou Giant Trees logging road up to Shanxi highway, Liulongtou, Andingwan, Shanlinxi logging camp, No.9 Trailhead, which later meet up with Mianyue Divine Tree, Shihou (Stone Monkey), Mianyue station, Tashan station and final destination, famous Alishan mountain scenic spot, which called Xi-A vertical trek. 

Running along redwoods and cedar, the trail was relaxed and enjoyable. Especially it was featured with several railway stations, which made 32 km seems an acceptable distance. Once, young people used to sit in the train, looked out window for continuous ranges of green forest and enjoyed its fresh pure air. Then they made an easy walk on logging road or good conditioned forest path to the other end of the trail, or pitched a tent elsewhere to stay for one more night in arms of mother nature. Doubtlessly, the trail attracted hundreds of thousands visitors and won a great fame for its name. 

Wednesday, October 7, 2015

[Trekking] Chialo Lake - scattering pearls from fairyland (宜蘭加羅湖)


Team: GoforWild
Time: Sep 26-27, 2015
Place: Siji Village, Yilan
Difficulties: ** (2/5),  steepy forest with big tree roots, and all year round wet mud, and bushes of trenchant miscanthus.



1. Tales of Chialo lake:


There is one tale tells a story in the elder day, a beautiful fairy accidentally drop off her mirror, broken to shiny pieces of misty lakes. Another story tells this lake group is a scattering pearls from hand of a pretty peri. The biggest and most beautiful lake was named after mountain Chialo. 

At the height of 2300m and moist lake group environment, Chialo lake easily get foggy and sudden change of weather. Foggy smokes and rains cover the lake mysteriously, meanwhile beams of sunshine makes it look fairy-land alike. Together with its reflections, the lake mystique unlimitedly expands and forms a scene of mirrored wonderworld. 

Scattering pearls from fairyland


2. Cypress woods: 


At the moderate to high altitudes of 1000–2900, green coniferous forest. This including two kind of famous cypresses that can be found here: Chamaecyparis taiwanensis (hinoki, 扁柏) and Chamaecyparis formosensis (meniki,紅檜), both are very valuable timbers. How to distinguish those two ones? Basically, even looks quite the same, however, differences still can be found in their smells and growing directions of leaves. Hinoki is solid and shows greater in quality then Meniki.


A walk in the woods

Saturday, October 3, 2015

[Book] The 100-year-old man who climbed out the window and disappeared

Author: Jonas Jonasson  
Year: 2009



I agree with first phrase of Marie Claire's review of  this book, such a a playful book; however, in my opinion, it's more than remind us to live life to the fullest, it's a review of significant events and memoirs in 20th century. It's hard to believe what happened in Allan life, or in fact, it's impossible to happen. Even though, I guess everyone would love to listen to stories of grandpa life long experience; especially when they represent the social context and movement then. By learning the past from the elderly,  you'd get a clearer idea of how incredibly this world moved on. 

Allan view of politics and religions
Growing up experience social political system changed rapidly, Allan define himself as no interested in any politics related topics and refuse to pick a side. Ironically, later his life always crushed in complex relationship with well known politician from all over the sides: Fascist, Capitalist, Communist, Socialist. By accidentally had the only Capitalist of the town exploded into pieces, forecast his successful life as a destroyer and confusing implication with political strategic. I'm quite impression with the way the writer arrange Allan met up with all great politician like Truman, Song Meiling, Stalin, Mao, Kim Young Il...


With his rich experience, Allan always affirm his attitude towards religion, atheist. From the earlier history, there's a firm connections between religion and power control. Since the date Christian had become official religion of Roman Empire, it gained power and shared glory with those Majesty. The pastor in Iran brings along the idea of how far religious propaganda can be seriously taken? When you found your endless and enlightenment, should you go further by spreading this delight to others? The pastor no doubt want to relieve public sorrow; however, his way of combine religious and politics made faith been forced but not a freely choice. No one has the right to  force others to do or follow anything. Too much propaganda for an unclear purpose in a large scale, and even worse, not at the right time can lead to tragedy. 
"To keep on saying the same thing over and over again thus served no purpose."

Monday, July 13, 2015

[Trekking] Fuji Mt. - spiritual temple of Japan

  • Height: 3776m
  • Team: A-lone 
  • Time: July, 2014
  • Place: Kawaguchiko, Japan
  • Trail Ascend: Yoshidaguchi Trail head. (850m), Yamanashi Prefecture. 
  • Trail Descend: Fujinomiya trail, 5th station (2400m), Shizuoka Prefecture.
  • Difficulties: ** (2/5), since it's summer hike.


This moment --- when the sun is rising on top of Fuji Mt. 

Intro:
1. Admission: 

Usually, trails are open from early July to mid September! You can check for more details here: Fuji Climb season. If climbing season ends, you need to ask for permission. 



2. Number of trails: 

a. Yoshida: oldest and longest, not steep; since ancient time, it's official trail that hold many holy rituals. Most of the mt. huts gather on this trail.
b. Fujinomiya:This route is the shortest and lowest in elevation among the four trails and, therefore, is the second most popular course next to the Yoshida Trail.
c. Subashiri: east side of Mount Fuji. You start from a lower elevation than Yoshida Trail. This trail is characterized by the abundance of plants and trees up to an elevation of around 2,700 m and the sand run on the descending trail. The trail is suited to climbers with experience because there are fewer huts.
d. Gotemba: starting from the elevation of 1,440 m, is an exceptionally difficult route compared with the other routes in both distance and the difference in elevation.

More details here: Fuji mt. Route






Trails of Fuji Mt. Source: Japan Guide




3. Access: 
Train JR Tokaido Shinkansen Line 'Kodama': Tokyo Station > Shin-Fuji Station (1 hour and 15 minutes) or Fuji Kyuko Bus: 2 hours and 15 minutes 
Local bus to North Sengen Shrine (height: 850m)

4. Mt huts booking: 
Every station there're many huts. But my personal opinion 8th station would be the best height to stay, for 2 reasons: first I started from trail head, and second, at least you have some distance to walk until the summit. You dun want to go there too fast when it's still dark and cold. 
One of the huts in 8th station is :http://www.mfi.or.jp/fujisan/. I booked and get all email contacted by Japanese, they dont use English in email but speak English, luckily. No deposit required, I guess because Japanese do business by credit. So if you booked the hut, please do come. 
I stayed there, dinner is ok, nice staff; however, breakfast is sth you shouldn't put too much expectation. The hut was full and you just get right enough place to lay down, sleeping bag already well-prepared. (And for this trip I brought my own, no need to get it out. Don't have a lot of place to move comfortably, also don't have time; you gonna be hurry in the morning.)

Hiking Notes:



I've heard that it's quite an ugly mt. to hike, without any trees and fauna and you have to queue in line to get to the top. Uhm, my word is: it depends. Beauty lies the eyes of beholder and the holiness stays in the heart of devout. As the spirit of Japan, Fujisan nowadays more like a sight seeing spot than a mountain.


However, my worry is the capacity of Mt. Fuji to hold thousand of ppl in this high season? Ppl line up miles away and moving slowly to the top. One of the big rock fell down and thrilled through right in front of me (yay, just me, among the huge crowd, just me, how can ???? ), luckily it just get my legs bruised. Back to the main point, how can a mt. suffer such a huge crowd trample on? Once upon a time, she's a holy mt. , a sacred goddess. At present, to many ppl, she's just a must-go-sight-seeing when visit Japan.Fuji became one of the most visited mt. of the world. 



Japan take really good on hiking trail management. Easy to access to hiking trail head by bus. Good condition hiking trail. safe and clear trail, convenient mountain huts attract thousand of hikers, tourists visit every summer.Mt. hut like a small convenience store, just 3 times expensive than the original price. Guiding station and first aid station along the way. Bio-toilets are everywhere (from a humorous perspective, excrement is everywhere, and if the mt. active again, I'm not sure that the magma is the thing gonna be threw to the air. :)) )



Let's review some scenic ard Fuji first, before officially step on the trail to this sacred mt. 
The Japanese say that the clouds that cover the tops of other peaks only curl around the foot of Fuji. Its summit, a lofty place of contemplation, provides an attractive sanctuary for the deities, who dwell there free from the sorrow that trouble the world below.


View from Kawaguchi station



Sengen Jinja Torii: Away from Kawaguchi station 10-15 mins walk (as I remember) is this can't  miss scenic spots. 



Fuji Sengen Jingja Torii (aiks, the cloud cover the sacred mt.)


Fuji North Sengen Shrine, formally known as Kitaguchi Hongū Fuji Sengen Jinja (北口本宮冨士浅間神社, "North Entrance Fuji Sengen Shrine"), is the main Sengen Shrine on the north side of the mountain. Means there are other shrines from other sides? And the head shrine of them all? Let's talk about it later in my other series of Japan Shrines. 



View of Fuji Sengen Shrine


View of Fuji Sengen Shrine

The main deity worshiped and was symbol of Fuji Mt. is Konohana (木花咲耶姫goddess. 
Konohana Sakuya Hime originally had little or no connection with Mount Fuji. Sometime between the 14th and 16th centuries, the belief arose among the people of the region that she would protect them from eruptions of the volcano as she had her newborn son from the flames of the burning bower. During the Tokugawa period, between 1600 and 1868, the Fuji-ko [Fuji mountain-climbing] movement confirmed Konohana Sakuya Hime as the principal goddess of the sacred mountain. She is now the central deity in major Shinto shrines at the base of the volcano and on the rim of its crater. 
Ironically, until late 19th century, women was banned from trekking to the summit, only can reach to very low station and must turn back. 


View at Sengen Shrine Trailhead, by that time, the enchantress walked by. Seems I was brought to ancient time.